Foodie Fridays: Mother Dough Pizza

There are a few topics of conversation I tend to avoid when I would prefer a quiet evening over impassioned and frenzied debate. Those topics include: politics, religion, and where to get the best pizza.

Everyone can offer up an opinion on his or her favorite pizza pie, but such a subjective discussion tends to end with “agreeing to disagree.” However, it’s hard to refute what the Italians have to say. The Italians are the innovators and architects of the pizza so it only seems fair that their opinion should weigh just a bit more than the rest of us, no?

I proceeded to ask a few of my Italian friends, “where can one find the most transcendental, life changing, extraordinary pizza pie in Italy?” And rather than harsh debate, the Italians all quickly agreed (which is not common for Italians) that the best pizza comes from Napoli.

Pizza has never been an underrepresented food group in the Los Feliz/Silver Lake neighborhood where I live. We’ve got a plethora of non-chain options to choose from, but the abundance of pizza parlors did not stop Bez Compani from confidently opening up just one more in the neighborhood. His new venture into the restaurant scene, Mother Dough, serves up his favorite kind of pie, the same variety my Italian friends claim is the most delizioso: Neapoloitan pizza.

Bez, an Iranian-born Angeleno who arrived in LA via London and Italy, is the driving force behind Mother Dough, and I’ve yet to see a restaurateur more hands on than this guy. He works the dough with his own two hands, stares down the heat emanating from his 900 degree wood burning oven, and even built the wooden tabletops himself – from a fallen oak tree. He ships in his olive oil from Naples and has no tolerance for anything less than the finest buffalo mozzarella

So what about the pizza? First of all, it’s important that you don’t walk in here expecting NY style pizza. These pies are baked for only sixty to ninety seconds in a very special, very hot oven. (Most pizza cooks for about ten minutes at half the heat.)

The dough is chewier and softer than what you’re used to. The flavors, just like all good Italian food, are exquisite in their simplicity. It’s all about letting the natural flavors of the high quality ingredients speak for themselves. When was the last time you can remember tasting the bold flavor of olive oil in your pizza? At Mother Dough you can.

The beautiful combination of a house-made red sauce, buffalo mozzarella and basil are served on a barely baked, chewy, but just crisp enough dough. The ingredients are anything but the sum of their parts. The bold yet simple flavors sing in harmony. I think the tune goes something like “You found me! The best pizza!”

Mother Dough Pizza, 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90027. 323.644.2885, www.motherdoughpizza.com, MAP.

NEXT TIME on Foodie Fridays: We're finally returning to the Westside, to sample the modern American comfort food at Upper West in Santa Monica.

Suggestions? Mail to: foodiefridays at foundtrack dot com

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER! @FoodieFridays

Foodie Fridays: Pairings by Savor Los Angeles

Creative collective Parallel Lines was kind enough to invite us to the latest incarnation of their Savor Los Angeles series, held earlier this month. With Abby out of town, I knew that all the sampling would be on my plate, literally. Tough job, but someone's gotta do it!


This time, Savor pulled together about a dozen participants under the theme of pairings: "foods made for each other, fusion, nostalgic specialties and unexpected flavor combinations," the invite read. While the theme was more apparent with some participants than others, Savor curated a brilliantly diverse group of eateries, ranging from long-standing LA restaurants (like The Farm of Beverly Hills) to the up-and-coming (like Auntie Fruf's Aahsome Fudge). The evening benefited CoachArt, a nonprofit which offers free arts and sports programs to children with chronic illnesses.


Parallel Lines once again selected a beautiful blank space, Hollywood's Siren Studios, which made the culinary displays stand out like works of art. While the city's young, stylish foodie set convened here, what was great about this event was that unlike other tastings, it wasn't overcrowded. Having to elbow your way through throngs of hungry people just to snag a microscopic bite of cheese is never fun.


Upon entering the event, attendees were treated to cocktails by Veev ("the world's first açaí spirit") just past the check-in desk—no better way to get a party started. They had an interactive come-up-with-your-own-creation setup, using one of two different concoctions and a handful of fruits and veggies. I ended up with a blackberry mint lemonade, which turned out sweet and refreshing. The cocktail was served in a fun little mason jar.


With our drinks in hand, we entered the main tasting room. Bacon seemed to be a major player this time around, appearing first in Pure Cheesecakes' blue cheese and tomato creation. I'm generally not a huge fan of cheesecakes—probably due to how heavy and rich they are—but these savory varieties of the typically sweet dessert were a delightful new experience.


Bacon was also found in caramelized form in Cast Iron Gourmet's incredibly addictive trail mix. The crunchy snack also consisted of dried fruit, chocolate, and nuts.


Also participating were Silver Lake's Malo Restaurant and its new downtown offshoot, Mas Malo, which I recently had the pleasure of trying. Unfortunately they didn't bring any of their very unique chewy tortilla chips or the super spicy habanero creme dip, but we were introduced to a new dish: the aguachile shrimp. The robust green lime and chile salsa definitely made the plump raw shrimp go *KABOOM* in your mouth.


Our old buddy Nguyen Tran of Starry Kitchen was present as well, and as you can tell by this photo, lively as ever!


His intern offered us plate after plate of the restaurant's mouthwatering pandan chicken (chunks of chicken wrapped in pandan leaves which are then fried). The savory dish's pairing counterpart was pandan flan, which was equal parts sweet, rich and smooth.


Bangers & Smashed made me nostalgic for London with their take on classic English pub grub. Two varieties of bite-sized bangers and mash were offered: Hungarian smoked pork sausage with "Loaded & Smashed" potatoes, and a smoked apple sage variation with goat cheese and sage mashed potatoes for the vegetarians amongst us.


The Farm showcased a beautiful flower arrangement made of raw veggies. Apparently we were standing in the right place at the right time, as we overheard a simultaneously hilarious and unfortunate conversation which went something along the lines of "so what flavor is this flower?" "...uhh... radish?"


Although desserts were the main focus of Savor's last tasting, sweets were certainly easy to find this time around as well. The Farm tempted attendees with platefuls of their simple, yet well-executed powdered brownie bites, and Auntie Fruf's offered a wide array of sugary treats. My favorite was a chewy chunk of fudge, encased in a vanilla macaron. Supposedly they were also serving fudge-filled fried ravioli—too bad this wasn't sitting out when I swung by!


The imbibers amongst us flocked to the bar upstairs, to score more drinks from Veev as well as one of my favorite classic Belgian beers, Duvel.


While we were busy sipping away, the raffle began. I've never won anything in a raffle before, but OF COURSE the first time I do it was for a little black dress! As great as this cute number (made by local designer Nuj Novakhett) might look on me, it will likely be finding itself on eBay soon. Other lucky winners scored items including a barbecue set and a pizza stone.


On our way out, we were treated to gift bags courtesy of Yelp, which included goodies like a Skoy eco-friendly dishrag, Wonderful pistachios, and an espresso cup. I've also been able to try the Zhena's Gypsy Tea coconut chai blend which I picked up at the event, and I must say this truly is a magical combination. Trust 'em or not, apparently gypsies really know what they're doing when it comes to tea! Refreshing cocktails, delicious "BFF" bites, and a free dress—all in all, a successful night. Great work, Parallel Lines!


Savor Los Angeles, www.parallellines.info.

Photos by Aurora Tang.

NEXT TIME on Foodie Fridays: We'll be giving you our thoughts on Los Feliz's recently opened Mother Dough, and let you know where it ranks in LA's sorely lacking pizza scene...

Suggestions? Mail to: foodiefridays at foundtrack dot com

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER! @FoodieFridays

Foodie Fridays: Berlin Currywurst

"Don't forget to get a photo of the empty plate," said co-owner Hardeep Manak, of Berlin Currywurst in Silver Lake. I was about to walk away with my DSLR in hand, but turned back for one last shot.


I wasn't surprised when I learned that Hardeep was rising in the ranks of the marketing world in Berlin not long before he and his wife, Lena, quit their 9-5 jobs to pursue their dream of owning a restaurant in Los Angeles.


Today their vison has been realized in the form of a hip, new Sunset Junction dining spot, currently introducing Angelenos to the Berliner street food favorite, currywurst.

The original currywurst was created sixty years ago by a German housewife who used curry and other newly imported spices to concoct a thick, savory sauce. She smothered the chopped traditional German wursts with the spicy ketchup-based curry sauce and served it up with a side of fresh baked bread for soaking up the drippings.

The menu at Berlin Currywurst—which opened in February—pays respect to the storied national dish while also offering more modern interpretations sure to please the sophisticated palates of Angelenos.

Tofuwurst, anyone? Or how about infusing your curry sauce with fruit, garlic, or chipotle flavors? The degree of spiciness can be tailored as well, from 1 ("Berlin Calling") to 4 ("Break the Wall").

On our visit, Shevin and I indulged in two varieties: the paprikawurst and the veal and pork wurst. The former was spicy with a punch of garlic and a hint of smokiness. Both varieties were grilled to perfection, with a snappy crunch with each bite into the casing.

Topped with minced onions and a sprinkling of spices, the golden hand-cut fries pair nicely with the spicy currywurst.

According to Hardeep and Lena, not only do their "hearts beat for currywurst," but also for sunny California. If the quality, flavors, and friendly service are any indication, I think they'll be enjoying the LA sunshine for years to come.

Dining at Berlin Currywurst and meeting this couple will certainly inspire you to search for airfare to Berlin when you return to your laptop. Perhaps you'll even entertain the idea of following in their brave footsteps by opening up a fusion taco truck in one of Berlin's arts districts. Both Hardeep and Lena think German appetites would gladly welcome the exchange.

Berlin Currywurst, 3827 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90026. 323.663.1989, www.berlincurrywurst.com, MAP.

COMING SOON on Foodie Fridays: We'll be going on a Latin spice food tour!

Suggestions? Mail to: foodiefridays at foundtrack dot com

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER! @FoodieFridays

Foodie Fridays: Help Japan

It's been over a week since tragedy hit Japan, but we all still want to help, even from afar. If you're looking for some unique ways to support the relief process, here are some great, food-related options we've found around town:Image: www.chariandconyc.net

-One of our favorite restaurants, Cube Cafe, has put together a special wine fundraiser called Red for Red, which will be available for the next week. 100% of proceeds from three select red wines ("and one white for good measure") will be sent to the American Red Cross. 615 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90036. 323.939.1148, www.cubemarketplace.com.

-Toranoko is hosting a special dinner from 5-11:30PM on Tuesday (3/22), from which they plan to donate 30% of food and drink revenue. 243 S. San Pedro St., Los Angeles, CA 90012. 213.621.9500, www.toranokola.com.

-Also on Tuesday, Sprinkles will be offering a special Red Cross Red Velvet cupcake; 100% of proceeds will be donated to relief efforts. 9635 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, CA 90210. 310.274.8765, www.sprinkles.com.

-Our friends at Yuko Kitchen are taking donations, as well as sending 5% of this month's total profits to the Japanese Red Cross. 5484 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036. 323.933.4020, www.yukokitchen.com.

-Black Cat Bakery is hosting an upscale bake sale on April 2, from 10AM-2PM. If you want to do more than just indulge, volunteers for the event and decadent donated treats are both welcome. 519 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90036. 323.932.1500. More info available at bitesofsugar.blogspot.com.

-Chef Eric Ripert of NYC's Le Bernardin will be donating 100% of the restaurant's four cookbooks to Save the Children and Direct Relief International for the next month. Email books@le-beranardin to order.

COMING SOON on Foodie Fridays: Night + Market.

Foodie Fridays: Aburiya Toranoko

First order of business is to send thoughts and prayers out to those affected by the devastating tsunami today. This post is dedicated to Japan.


I started salivating immediately when I first got wind that Michael Cardenas, head chef of the Lazy Ox Canteen, one of my favorite L.A. dining spots, was opening a new restaurant. I discovered that it was to be called Aburiya Toranoko, and it would serve Japanese izikaya-style cuisine, as well as sushi. To top it off, I learned that it was located conveniently right next door to the Lazy Ox. This meant there would be no time or effort necessary to Google-map the new location—time and effort that could be much better spent studying the menu on the restaurant's website and drooling some more.


In the age of the celebrity chef, the name of a restaurateur or executive chef/taste-maker has become increasingly important information when making the difficult decision of where to dine. It often guides diners’ stomachs and wallets more powerfully than the type of cuisine, the location, or even the atmosphere. (Who wouldn’t prefer dinner from a truck named Ludo over an overpriced and oversalted dish on a white table cloth?) Point being, the Cardenas name carries a lot of weight with my palate, and so I embarked with an empty stomach and high expectations down to his latest culinary establishment in Little Tokyo.


So what did I think? Was I as impressed as I was the first time I sat down to eat at his flagship restaurant next door? The short answer is, yes—absolutely! The décor is hip and fits in with the downtown LA scene. It’s welcomes you with a sheik industrial design complete exposed brick, colorful graffiti and a lively bar. The combination of the minimalist wooden communal table and the extravagant chandelier indicates this is a choose-your-own dress code kind of place.


The most exciting thing to spot, however, was the chalkboard menu listing the several LIVE dishes for the day. The evening we visited, the offerings were octopus and eel: fresh, delicious, and still squirming.


Our entire party ordered shots of the live eel. Our waiter carefully instructed us to pour some of our sake inside each shot glass, squeeze in some lemon juice, and proceed to chug. For some of you this may sound absolutely repulsive, but for the adventurous eaters out there, it’s a must. It’s sweet, light, and packed with a punch of flavor. Of course it's not the kind of shot you want to do rounds of—but you should definitely try it once.

.
As for the white fish and pomegranate, I haven’t always been the biggest fan of fish and fruit, but the sweet pomegranate juice and the texture of the seeds was a bright compliment to the buttery white fish. The flavor of the white fish was still the star of the dish and the pomegranate did not overpower.


If Cardenas was my private chef or roommate, I’d probably ask him to make the seared tuna for me everyday. It set the bar for how to prepare this type of dish. Savory and served warm, the fish melts in your mouth. It was paired with delicate pieces of fried spinach leaves. A wispy and delightful texture, not at all short on salt or flavor. I’d take a bag of these over potato chips any day.


Next was the Japanese style Jidori fried chicken, lightly salted and served with a couple of lemon wedges. No need for more description than that; pretty much the best chicken nuggets you'll ever eat. :)


The braised Colorado black pork was a standout dish. Braised for hours, it almost falls apart when you put it in your mouth—it’s that tender. I imagine this is what Japanese comfort food would be like but I can’t say I have much experience with that myself. It felt classic and simple but the flavors, true to Cardenas' style were layered, complex, and elevated. I wish I had the recipe.


In regards to the sushi, a picture says a thousand words, so check out these beauties:



And for desert, we tried the green tea pudding, which we had heard a lot about. Although this was my first time eating this sweet and rich custard-like dessert, I wouldn't be surprised if pudding made like this becomes an alternative to cupcakes and frozen yogurt.


Toranoko not only boasts quality traditional Japanese food, but is innovative and contemporary in a way that only Cardenas could pull off. I suggest we all spend some more time eating well in Little Tokyo. We're lucky to have such a wonderful culinary mecca right in our own backyard.

Aburiya Toranoko, 243 S. San Pedro St., Los Angeles, CA 90012. 213.621.9500, www.toranokola.com, MAP.

Photos by Aurora Tang.

NEXT TIME on Foodie Fridays: We'll be sampling glammed up Thai street food at Night + Market, the latest venture from Talésai's Kris Yenbamroong.

Suggestions?
Mail to: foodiefridays at foundtrack dot com

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER! @FoodieFridays